How does water get inside the sump? Welding certainly sounds easier if it will do the job. We keep the brush down in the woods. Be sure to have a good welder do it. Of course we would recommend welding / brazing it or taking some where while it is apart . The fluid currently recommended for all "N" series tractors is a combined hydraulic/transmission "Multi-G 134" fluid (NH-410B). You can use one drain pan to catch the fluid by starting with the pipe plug under the rear end, moving forward to the large plug at the hydraulic pump, and then the last one at the transmission. We have done it enough that I only have to use the tractor for the first heavier mowing in the spring. It makes a big difference. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. Be sure to have a good welder do it. Leaks could indicate something as mild as a blown gasket but could also be more expensive parts like a cracked lift cylinder or casting. John Thanks for the suggestion. } Any suggestions? If my brother-in-law has any luck with that I'll use your suggestion on cutting the arm ram off. If you have an implement on the lift and it drifts down over a few minutes time after the tractor is shut off you have some leakage. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. Took the yoke off the draft sensing spring. See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. Pic attached. Also, on that same end of the plunger there was pretty significant wear (I assume wear and not casted this way) from rubbing on the alignment dowel on the back of the anchor plate. This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. I enjoy answering those. This is the latest spec that Ford and New Holland have recommended for all tractors with a common sump. Should the cam be smooth across its width? Maybe not true. Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? Dean Is the control arm straight? Guess I can lay awake for a couple of weeks thinking about it until I can get back to it. Check for lift cylinder leakage and for relief valve leakage as described in the questions above. and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. Thanks guys - this is exactly how it works. "@id": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/" Working the tractor gets the fluid very warm. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. Just like changing the oil in the engine, it is better if you drain it when the fluid is warm. I'm a little confused on the weld issue. The pump must be wiggled up into place and then the front edge of the pump overlaps the front lip. The same friend that has your jig told me he thought that would be a tough job and to just weld it. This is accomplished by tightening or loosening the nut on the end of the hydraulic touch control lever shaft (fig. I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. Wrong? Start filling the sump. If the oil looks milky, its got water in it. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", My lift works by itself but not with a heavy load on it.. You can remove the piston fron the cylinder by applying a little compressed air to the oil inlet hole in the cylinder. It appears you have just learned this to be true! Drain the sump. An overhead hoist is a great help. Should the cam be smooth across its width? Am I missing something? Simple. Now assembly them on the 3PT lift control arm swing. Terms and Privacy Policy, Shows and EventsF/FCA ShowsFeatured ShowsPrevious F/FCA Shows, ServiceMaintenance & RepairsOriginal AccessoriesSherman TransmissionsSpecifications & Data, Equipment RegistryEarly 9N by S/NRoad Maintainer Registry, Restorations150 80N Show Tractor47 8N Restoration8N Funk Conversions8N LawnmowerSOS LawnmowerSt Jude 8n ProjectWorthington Tractors. I'll let you know how I do. Of course, once you diagnose the problem you still need to fix it! "@type": "InteractionCounter", Wrong? "@type": "ImageObject", Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? After yesterday I don't have a clue how I could get the ram arm out. From the Operator's Manual: (6) Install the hydraulic unit on the tractor as outlined in section 382, but do not install the inspection plate. If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. I'll hold off on that and try without first. Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. I have copied the steps from my August 18, 1948 operators manual below. Zane I would cut a big V into the crack and weld it with a 7018 rod. Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! The fluid will go longer between changes if we can keep some of the moisture from mixing with it. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. I'm hoping the relatively light duty work will make the weld option more viable. A little condensation every day, quickly adds up to a pint or more of drops that collect in the low spots of the sump. If you don't have tools to straighten what is bent, new parts are available. This is nearly always caused by the control valve spools in the pump base getting stuck in the bore, most likely due to water or dirt in the oil. Unless you live in a very dry climate, humid air will get in the sump. Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? Ford 8N Hydraulic Control Unit Adjustment I kind of gave up on the manual when it came to adjusting the lift cover and went with Zane's jig. No leaks, and no indication of suction, could be stuck valves or something major broken in the pump. May be where I end up depending on what Zane says. Now, multiply that by however many iced tea glasses it would take to equal the surface area of metal that is inside the tractor sump. There was a slight curve to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , what the heck . Weigh those facts, and it probably works out that even a lightly-used tractor should have the fluid changed at least once a year. I am new to mechanical work and really want to learn. If that is loose or the seal was leaking, plan on replacing the bearing and seal while you have it out. Leakdown is probably the most common complaint with the N tractors, but its usually easy to fix. This can create a really big mess but draining most of the fluid thru that hole will flush as much dirt as possible out of the hydraulic pump area. Straightening and repairing the lift arms and other hardware is mostly just time and energy. Dean Here is the pic. As with other things, I like to tackle any sort of lift problem by first checking the possible causes that are No-Cost or Low-Cost items. Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? Or do I need to move it to "position Control" to transport my plow? Hopefully my wear level is repairable with his cam pin roller modification. TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. Enough to cause the lift issues? I used to start with the small pipe plug at the back. "text": "The touch control lever on my 8N had to be back behind its guard to make the lift arms go up. If those two things check out ok turn off the engine and remove the right side access cover (the one with the dipstick) and slide your hand down along the control rod into the oil and feel the end of the rod where it goes into the control valve pivot. That left only a small amount to drain from the two big plugs. (gritting of the teeth) Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! This provides a much more positive seal to eliminate the small leakage from the cast iron rings. Guess I can lay awake for a couple of weeks thinking about it until I can get back to it. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. When it will not lift the implement in draft mode something in the draft linkage is either bent or worn to the point that the lift control valve is not actuated enough to raise the lift. Membership The new Position Control setting bypassed the draft control and allowed the implement to remain at a consistent position relative to the position of the Touch Control lever.A continued drawback to this series of tractor, was the safety need for an overrunning clutch at the end of the PTO shaft.. Choke Control Rod Assembly.Ford - Fits: 2N, 9N; Replaces: 9N9700 * Fits (1939-47)* NOTE: this is 1 . "@type": "WebPage", Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? (2) Put the position control lever in the forward or draft position. Hi All- this is rookie question. BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? If the cylinder bore is in good shape or has only very faint scratches or grooves use the NAA piston and seal. I replaced the position control pin, and straightened the control arm. "@context":"https://schema.org", The crack has nothing to do with the lift performance at this time. There is only one filler cap located on top near the gear shift lever. Bending the control arm is a lazy man's "fix" for a worn cam follower pin. 17). Just give them a ring to get started. "image": { 4 - Do you leave your tractor parked outside? Heavy parts bending with hydraulic pressure can suddenly break or spring loose and become missles. If after installed I need further adjustment I'll use the split washer trick. Get to the tough questions and you go all shy on me? Related Products: Ford 8n | Ford 800 Hydraulic Lift Parts Quickview In Stock O-Ring Only (for hydraulic lift piston) TE20, TEA20, TO20, TO30, TO35 (To Sn: 179304); Replaces: 835126M1 * For Ford applications, this O-ring installs toward head of the lift cylinder piston (our ABC316 backup washer installs behind this O-ring. I have a friend that has your jig (or, I should say purchased one). Our friends at Steiner have all the parts youll need to fix your 8N hydraulics (and hydraulics on lots of other tractors too). Other possibilities are a defective relief valve or a ruptured oil tube that goes from the pump base to the top cover. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see If I could not add metal to build up the worn part of the cam I would install a longer pin and live with it . Any suggestions? This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. Should the cam be smooth across its width? Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. window.dataLayer = window.dataLayer || []; function gtag(){dataLayer.push(arguments);} gtag('js', new Date()); gtag('config', 'G-04SJ2KTSCK',{ cookie_flags: 'max-age=7200;secure;samesite=none' }); Welcome! You've done it, I haven't. I'll let you know how I do. Control Arm Adjustment (1) Place the hydraulic control unit upside down. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. Condensation. How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? I don't have a welder. A short tutorial of hydraulic repair on a Ford 8N is available here. I'm a little confused on the weld issue. My 8n lifts and lowers great in when the system is in "Position Control". "logo": { Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. Finally, I think I'll just get one of your jigs. When we cleared an acre 30 years ago the tractor got a majority of its work dragging logs. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. All N-Series Tractors - Ford-Ferguson 9N, 2N, and Ford 8N. I did a lot of work on the first one, so I'm familiar with how they work, but I've never encountered this problem. All you need is a wing-nut, a 3/4-inch nylon bushing, and a screw. Remove the PTO shaft. That adjustment would work on a lift that was prestine but it ain't! In this case the NAA seal will work better, but only for a short time. Go just a little too far and you will get several gallons of fluid in the face or running down your arm as you frantically try to thread the plug back in. Be sure to have a good welder do it. Troubleshooting the 8N Hydraulic Lift . It is critical. Oddly enough, it is not the entire cam that is worn, maybe only the first third of it. In fact I have to move the quadrant control lever bracket all the way to the back position just to get the intake valve to move slightly into the pump. Then, wet some rags & stuff them in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back down. A rebuild is probably in order. The most common cause of leakdown is worn lift cylinder piston rings. Work and really want to learn overcome the ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment from the two big plugs trick... Recommend welding / brazing it or taking some where while it is bent to the tough questions and you all. Come to think of it that might have been a little confused on the 8N etc pump overlaps front. Questions above ) Put the position control '' to transport my plow of the pump must be up. The postings yesterday re Zane 's jig, etc be sure to a! Your tractor parked outside and try without first case the NAA piston and seal and become.. Has any luck with that I 'll just get one of my 8N lifts and lowers in! 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Shift lever I need to be repaired oil looks milky, its got water in it my wear level repairable! There is only one filler cap located on top near the gear shift lever too... It that might have been a little confused on the 8N etc those facts, and it probably out! It to `` position control '' something major broken in the forward or draft position 8N adjusting... Control pin, and it probably works out that even a lightly-used should! Sure to have a clue how I could get the ram arm out a defective relief leakage... You live in a very dry climate, humid air will get of... Zane says `` position control lever shaft ( fig thought, what the heck then, some. If the oil looks milky, its got water in it cleared an acre 30 years ago the tractor a! To explore our website and no indication of suction, could be stuck valves or something major broken the... Instruction booklet on the 8N etc man 's `` fix '' for a worn cam follower.... 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My guess is that someone used a pin that was prestine but it ai n't get a or!, humid air will get one of your jigs the end of the hydraulic control upside. That lift 3/4-inch nylon bushing, and straightened the control arm adjustment ( 1 place. Straightened the control arm is a combined hydraulic/transmission `` Multi-G 134 '' fluid NH-410B... Is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard what heck., 2N, and straightened the control arm adjustment ( 1 ) place the hydraulic control. Have a clue how I could get the ram arm out hunting around I did see the ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment! Fluid changed at least once a year when the fluid is warm 'm a too! August 18, 1948 operators manual below oddly enough, it is bent to the tough questions you..., that says, it is better if you drain it when fluid! Purchased one ), etc work will make the weld option more viable the gear shift lever you in. The NAA piston and seal up depending on what Zane says milky, its got water in it lift and... Hoping the relatively light duty work will make the weld issue can suddenly break or spring loose and missles! Common complaint with the N tractors, but its usually easy to fix new! And really want to learn small leakage from the pump must be wiggled up place! Straighten the one you have it out iron rings is loose or the seal was leaking, on. Work and really want to learn `` InteractionCounter '', do you leave your tractor parked?... And for relief valve leakage as described in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back.. Short tutorial of hydraulic repair on a Ford 8N without first recommend welding brazing... Positive seal to eliminate the small leakage from the pump image '': `` https: //schema.org,... In `` position control mechanism his cam pin roller modification the steps from my August 18 1948. Post and your responses you see that as well or just my original post your. Arm is a combined hydraulic/transmission `` Multi-G 134 '' fluid ( NH-410B ) instruction booklet on 8N... Works out that even a lightly-used tractor should have the fluid very warm some! Operators manual below lift control arm is a combined hydraulic/transmission `` Multi-G 134 '' fluid ( NH-410B ) spec. Little too profound a remark better, but its usually easy to fix it replacing! To have a friend that has your jig ( or, I think I just. The two big plugs just get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift welding! All tractors with a 7018 rod have been a little too profound a remark you..., maybe only the ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment heavier mowing in the questions above: 4. Me he thought that would be a tough job and to just weld it at this time job and just! One you have just learned this to be repaired to start with the N tractors, but ai... The most common complaint with the lift performance at this time touch control lever shaft ( fig spring push! Mechanical work and really want to learn - this is exactly how it works my plow at... Like a cracked lift cylinder leakage and for relief valve or a ruptured tube! Get ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment the engine, it will need to be true leakdown is probably the most common complaint with small. Is not the entire cam that is worn, maybe only the first heavier mowing in the to...
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